Provided By Dallas Morning News
The number of potential home foreclosures in North Texas is down sharply.
Foreclosure filings for next month’s auctions dropped by 23 percent, Foreclosure Listing Service said Thursday.
This is the third month in a row that foreclosure postings in the four-county area are lower than the previous year.
“Dallas-Fort Worth residential foreclosure postings have dropped to a 40-month low,” said George Roddy, president of the Addison-based foreclosure tracking firm.
Lenders have scheduled 3,719 area homes for foreclosure in May, the lowest number since January 2008.
But despite recent declines in foreclosure postings, Roddy isn’t convinced the worst is over.
“I believe this is an artificial decline in foreclosure notices due to the tremendous scrutiny applied by regulators during recent months in response to publicity about past problems with the foreclosure process,” he said. “The fallout from this foreclosure crisis is going to take a long time to work through.”
Some analysts are predicting lenders will increase the number of foreclosures in the months ahead.
The biggest drop in current foreclosure filings is in Collin County, where postings dropped 31 percent from a year ago. Postings are down 23 percent in Dallas County and 24 percent in Tarrant County.
For the first five months of 2011, foreclosure filings in North Texas are 8 percent lower than in the same period last year, Foreclosure Listing Service reports. So far in 2011, 25,106 home foreclosure filings have been recorded in the four-county area.
Only about a third of the homes set for foreclosure each month are actually sold by lenders. In many cases the forced sale is delayed or the borrower reaches a new agreement with the mortgage company.
Last year, lenders filed for foreclosure on a record 63,835 D-FW area homes — up 4 percent from 2009.
Facing foreclosure? There are options, call us at 972.772.7000 or email us at frontdesk552@kw.com.
Friday, April 29, 2011
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
Evaluating and responding to different offers
Provided By Trulia
Congratulations - you have received an offer on your home! So how can you evaluate and respond to the offer ihttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifn a way that protects your interests but doesn't send buyers running for the hills?
The first thing to remember is that all offers are good. Why? Because it shows that a buyer has chosen your home over the massive amount of competition available in the marketplace. Any offer then, regardless of how high, low, or crazy it might be, should be taken as a compliment. Now the harder question - Should you accept the offer?
As a seller, when you receive an offer you always have three choices. First, you can accept the offer - this means subject to the conditions of the sale your home is officially sold. Second, you can reject the offer, and in effect tell the buyer to kindly kiss off. Or third, you can counter the offer. While many sellers instinctively reach for a pen to counter all offers, wise sellers take a deep breath before making this decision.
Many sellers view making a counter offer as a natural part of the sales process, but what many don't realize is that they are really rejecting the buyer's offer first and then presenting a new offer back to the buyer. The trouble with this is, the instant you give the buyer a moment to pause and reconsider their decision, even for a minor point, you run the risk of losing the buyer. Because of this the question that successful sellers have learned to ask themselves first is: Is it really worth a counter offer? This simple question should be the measuring stick with which to evaluate every item you plan to ask for from a buyer. In many cases the risk is not worth the reward.
If you are forced to make a counter offer keep in mind these three tips:
Attempt to understand the buyer's position
A negotiation is never a one way street. In order to create a sale, both parties must feel they are receiving a good value. Learn as much about the buyer, including their background and reasons for making their initial offer, as possible. By doing so you may able to find common ground that can create a successful sale.
Use the give and take technique
When making a counter offer, think in terms of, not only what you want, but what you might be willing to give up to make the sale happen. For instance, if you are asking for a higher price, can you help pay the buyer's closing costs or perhaps pay points to help them secure lower payments?
Emphasize the positives
In writing your counter offer you may want to emphasize the areas that you do agree on before you begin asking for modifications. For instance, point out all the areas of the original offer that are acceptable. This might include the closing date, the possession date, the down payment, the price, the inclusions and exclusions, the financing type, specific conditions or contingencies, or even something as simple as the size of the earnest money deposit.
By taking the time to evaluate each offer and establish a negotiating strategy, based on an unemotional analysis of the market and your needs as a seller, you will be far ahead of your competition.
If you are ready to sell your home and need a professional real estate agent give us a call at 972.772.7000 or email us at frontdesk552@kw.com.
Congratulations - you have received an offer on your home! So how can you evaluate and respond to the offer ihttp://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifn a way that protects your interests but doesn't send buyers running for the hills?
The first thing to remember is that all offers are good. Why? Because it shows that a buyer has chosen your home over the massive amount of competition available in the marketplace. Any offer then, regardless of how high, low, or crazy it might be, should be taken as a compliment. Now the harder question - Should you accept the offer?
As a seller, when you receive an offer you always have three choices. First, you can accept the offer - this means subject to the conditions of the sale your home is officially sold. Second, you can reject the offer, and in effect tell the buyer to kindly kiss off. Or third, you can counter the offer. While many sellers instinctively reach for a pen to counter all offers, wise sellers take a deep breath before making this decision.
Many sellers view making a counter offer as a natural part of the sales process, but what many don't realize is that they are really rejecting the buyer's offer first and then presenting a new offer back to the buyer. The trouble with this is, the instant you give the buyer a moment to pause and reconsider their decision, even for a minor point, you run the risk of losing the buyer. Because of this the question that successful sellers have learned to ask themselves first is: Is it really worth a counter offer? This simple question should be the measuring stick with which to evaluate every item you plan to ask for from a buyer. In many cases the risk is not worth the reward.
If you are forced to make a counter offer keep in mind these three tips:
Attempt to understand the buyer's position
A negotiation is never a one way street. In order to create a sale, both parties must feel they are receiving a good value. Learn as much about the buyer, including their background and reasons for making their initial offer, as possible. By doing so you may able to find common ground that can create a successful sale.
Use the give and take technique
When making a counter offer, think in terms of, not only what you want, but what you might be willing to give up to make the sale happen. For instance, if you are asking for a higher price, can you help pay the buyer's closing costs or perhaps pay points to help them secure lower payments?
Emphasize the positives
In writing your counter offer you may want to emphasize the areas that you do agree on before you begin asking for modifications. For instance, point out all the areas of the original offer that are acceptable. This might include the closing date, the possession date, the down payment, the price, the inclusions and exclusions, the financing type, specific conditions or contingencies, or even something as simple as the size of the earnest money deposit.
By taking the time to evaluate each offer and establish a negotiating strategy, based on an unemotional analysis of the market and your needs as a seller, you will be far ahead of your competition.
If you are ready to sell your home and need a professional real estate agent give us a call at 972.772.7000 or email us at frontdesk552@kw.com.
Monday, April 25, 2011
Art of HOA Tree Pruning
Provided By Realty Times
Trees are living artwork that decorate the common area. They are beautiful and soothe the soul but are constantly changing. Like all living things, they need care and attention.
Trees are pruned to produce an effect in the landscape - that's the "art" side of pruning. Understanding and being able the tree's growth and health response to pruning is the "science" side.
When done properly, pruning can improve a tree's appearance as well as increase its life expectancy. Proper pruning opens the canopy of the tree to permit more air movement and sunlight penetration. Done improperly, pruning can decrease the tree's life expectancy or even kill it. Because trees are living organisms, they can be profoundly affected by pruning practices.
The American National Standards Institute's criteria for tree pruning called "ANSI A300" was adopted in 1995. It should be followed in all pruning situations and geographic areas.
Making Cuts: Branches should be removed with thinning cuts. A thinning cut either removes a branch at its point of origin or shortens it back to a lateral branch that is large enough to assume the terminal role.
Branches should not be removed with heading or topping cuts. A heading cut is when a currently growing or one-year-old shoot is cut back to a bud, or when a larger limb is cut back to a stub or a lateral that is not big enough to assume the terminal role. Heading should not be used in shade and ornamental tree pruning, since it forces the growth of sprouts that are weakly attached to the parent stem. Drastic heading can kill the tree outright.
Branch Size: A minimum or maximum diameter size of branches to be removed should be specified in all pruning operations. This establishes how much pruning is to be done.
Pruning Objectives: Pruning objectives should be established prior to beginning any pruning operation. A300 provides two basic objectives:
Hazard Reduction Pruning: This is recommended when the primary objective is to reduce the danger to a specific target caused by visibly defined hazards in a tree. For example, hazard reduction pruning may be the primary objective if a tree had many dead limbs over a park bench.
Maintenance Pruning: This is recommended when the primary objective is to maintain or improve tree health and structure, and includes hazard-reduction pruning. An example here might be to perform a maintenance pruning operation on a front yard tree.
Pruning Types: Hazard reduction pruning and maintenance pruning should consist of one or more of the pruning types noted below.
Crown Cleaning consists of the selective removal of one or more of the following items: dead, dying, or diseased branches, weak branches and watersprouts.
Crown Thinning is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration, air movement, and reduce weight.
Crown raising consists of the removal of the lower branches of a tree to provide clearance.
Crown reduction, also called crown shaping, decreases the height and/or spread of a tree. Consideration should be given to the ability of a species to sustain this type of pruning.
Vista pruning is selective thinning of framework limbs or specific areas of the crown to allow a view of an object from a predetermined point.
Crown restoration pruning should improve the structure, form and appearance of trees which have been severely headed, vandalized, or storm damaged.
When you contract a company for tree care, you should obtain a written commitment that, "All pruning shall be done in accordance with the ANSI A300 standard for tree pruning." This means:
Proper cuts will be made.
Spikes won't be used to climb. Spikes are injurious to the living tree and should only be used in emergency situations or when the tree has very thick bark.
Not more than 1/4 of the foliage of the canopy or individual limbs should be removed in any one season.
When pruning is completed, at least ½ of the foliage should remain evenly distributed in the lower 2/3 of the canopy.
Trees are one of a homeowner association's biggest assets and need to be treated with respect and care. Use only a trained arborist and budget in your reserve plan for recommended pruning.
If you are interested in a home and have HOA questions, please give us a call at 972.772.7000 or email us at frontdesk552@kw.com.
Trees are living artwork that decorate the common area. They are beautiful and soothe the soul but are constantly changing. Like all living things, they need care and attention.
Trees are pruned to produce an effect in the landscape - that's the "art" side of pruning. Understanding and being able the tree's growth and health response to pruning is the "science" side.
When done properly, pruning can improve a tree's appearance as well as increase its life expectancy. Proper pruning opens the canopy of the tree to permit more air movement and sunlight penetration. Done improperly, pruning can decrease the tree's life expectancy or even kill it. Because trees are living organisms, they can be profoundly affected by pruning practices.
The American National Standards Institute's criteria for tree pruning called "ANSI A300" was adopted in 1995. It should be followed in all pruning situations and geographic areas.
Making Cuts: Branches should be removed with thinning cuts. A thinning cut either removes a branch at its point of origin or shortens it back to a lateral branch that is large enough to assume the terminal role.
Branches should not be removed with heading or topping cuts. A heading cut is when a currently growing or one-year-old shoot is cut back to a bud, or when a larger limb is cut back to a stub or a lateral that is not big enough to assume the terminal role. Heading should not be used in shade and ornamental tree pruning, since it forces the growth of sprouts that are weakly attached to the parent stem. Drastic heading can kill the tree outright.
Branch Size: A minimum or maximum diameter size of branches to be removed should be specified in all pruning operations. This establishes how much pruning is to be done.
Pruning Objectives: Pruning objectives should be established prior to beginning any pruning operation. A300 provides two basic objectives:
Hazard Reduction Pruning: This is recommended when the primary objective is to reduce the danger to a specific target caused by visibly defined hazards in a tree. For example, hazard reduction pruning may be the primary objective if a tree had many dead limbs over a park bench.
Maintenance Pruning: This is recommended when the primary objective is to maintain or improve tree health and structure, and includes hazard-reduction pruning. An example here might be to perform a maintenance pruning operation on a front yard tree.
Pruning Types: Hazard reduction pruning and maintenance pruning should consist of one or more of the pruning types noted below.
Crown Cleaning consists of the selective removal of one or more of the following items: dead, dying, or diseased branches, weak branches and watersprouts.
Crown Thinning is the selective removal of branches to increase light penetration, air movement, and reduce weight.
Crown raising consists of the removal of the lower branches of a tree to provide clearance.
Crown reduction, also called crown shaping, decreases the height and/or spread of a tree. Consideration should be given to the ability of a species to sustain this type of pruning.
Vista pruning is selective thinning of framework limbs or specific areas of the crown to allow a view of an object from a predetermined point.
Crown restoration pruning should improve the structure, form and appearance of trees which have been severely headed, vandalized, or storm damaged.
When you contract a company for tree care, you should obtain a written commitment that, "All pruning shall be done in accordance with the ANSI A300 standard for tree pruning." This means:
Proper cuts will be made.
Spikes won't be used to climb. Spikes are injurious to the living tree and should only be used in emergency situations or when the tree has very thick bark.
Not more than 1/4 of the foliage of the canopy or individual limbs should be removed in any one season.
When pruning is completed, at least ½ of the foliage should remain evenly distributed in the lower 2/3 of the canopy.
Trees are one of a homeowner association's biggest assets and need to be treated with respect and care. Use only a trained arborist and budget in your reserve plan for recommended pruning.
If you are interested in a home and have HOA questions, please give us a call at 972.772.7000 or email us at frontdesk552@kw.com.
Friday, April 22, 2011
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Easy Ways to Boost Curb Appeal
Provided By Good Housekeeping These quick, inexpensive changes will help you have the best house on the block Whether you simply want your home to look its smartest or you're thinking about putting it on the market in a year or two, these quick, inexpensive changes will help you have what you want: the best house on the block. 1. Get a new door. "The front door is the most telling detail of your house," says Alan Hanbury, Jr., former chairman of the Remodelors Council of the National Association of Home Builders. You can give your home's entryway an instant lift by choosing custom colors, handsome woods such as mahogany or cherry, or cut-glass storm doors. 2. Think shutters. "If you have an older house, this is one way to add character without spending a lot," says Rocco P. Orlando Jr., an architect in Ridgewood, New Jersey. You can hunt for them in antiques shops or order them from a home store. Shutters are also a good place to add vibrant accent colors like Benjamin Moore's Caribbean Blue Water, Valspar's Oatlands Yellow, or Home Depot's spicy margarita greens and chili-pepper reds. 3. Accessorize. Brass knockers, mailboxes, and lanterns are small investments that make your house look great, says Tim Carter, a syndicated home-improvement columnist (askthebuilder.com). Since these accents can lose their shine, choose tarnish-free pieces such as Baldwin Hardware's line, starting at $50 for a mail slot. House numbers, kickplates, and doorbell buttons are also available. 4. Spruce up the grounds. Trim shrubs so that doors and windows aren't hidden. Fill window boxes with vines, geraniums, and ornamental grasses, or plant tried-and-true perennials like climbing hydrangea. The garden should complement the style of the house, says Don Haldeman, owner of Sycamore Springs Garden Center in Reading, Pennsylvania. If your house is contemporary, skip the old-fashioned flowering plants and select carefully trimmed spruces or spiral topiaries. 5. Paint it right. Traditional colors are big right now, says John Crosby Freeman, a color and design consultant. And unlike eggplant purple (which was hot a few years ago), the classics never go out of style. Benjamin Moore's Historical Colors collection is the company's most popular line, with 174 shades. Timeless favorites from Valspar's American Tradition line include Coastal Peach (inspired by San Diego's Hotel Del Coronado) and Woodlawn Sterling Blue (from George Washington's daughter's estate). Since the average cost to paint a two-story home is more than $8,000, don't rush your decision. Check out homes you like in your area and ask the owners for the names of the paint colors they used. Read more: Easy Ways to Boost Curb Appeal - Good Housekeeping
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